Tools Needed

• 1 flat head screwdriver
• 1 phillips screwdriver
• 1/4 inch socket set
  • 1/4 socket driver
  • 1/4 inch universal extension
  • Metric socket set (10MM)
  • English socket set (7/32, ???)
• blanket (to set front facia on when removed)
• metal scribe or marker (for marketing mounting holes on KC mounting bracket)
• 3/8 inch drill (for drilling holes in mounting bracket)
• 7 MM drill bit (for drilling holes in mounting bracket)
• Pneumatic disc cutter (for trimming condenser shroud)
• Rotory file (for deburring the trimmed shroud plastic)
• AC fitting spring lock release tool (5/8 inch)
• Clamping tool (to secure bands on AC hoses)
• Channel Locks (great for clamps on hoses)
• 5/8th open end wrench (for tightening hose fittings)
• Adjustible wrench (for tightening hose fittings)

Materials Needed

• KC bracket mounting hardware
  • To mount bracket to car
    • 2 6MM bolts (1.5 inches)
    • 2 3/4 inch nylon spacers (1 inch diameter) OR 4 3/8 inch spacers (1 inch diameter)
    • 2 6MM nylock nuts
  • To secure top of mounting bracket
    • 2 nylock nuts (what size were these)
• Plastic tie wraps
  • Black 8-12 inch (a couple dozen) to secure hoses in position during install
  • Small (4-6 inch) for temporary use to hold items out of the way
• AC charging system (I worked with someone qualified in AC systems and had the freon, PAG oil and equipment to both evacuate and recharge my system)
• Heater hose 6 feet (3/4 Inner diameter)
• Heater hose clamps - 2 for KC heater hose

Before Getting Started

Before starting this procedure you must know that are EPA regulations about venting Freon 134 to atmosphere. Please locate a reputable company or person that has the proper equipment to ensure the Freon in your AC system has been evacuated and accumulated in a proper manner.

When you are finished with this procedure you will need to have your AC system recharged. While there are some kits that will allow you to do it yourself, it is important to have the correct amount of Freon for optimal performance. More is not better in this case. A qualified person with the proper equipment will ensure that your system is leak free and that the Freon is at the correct amount to optimize cooling of your KC unit and your air conditioning system in your car.

Step 1: Remove Radiator Cover

Remove the 8 push pins that hold the cover in place. Use a screwdriver or other tool to lift the center of the push pin. Once it is lifted you can lift the whole pin assembly out.

Remove Front Facia Assembly (steps 2-12)

Step 2: Unscrew 5 phillips screws in front of driver wheel well

Turn your wheel so it points into the car. This will give you extra room to work. With a short phillips screwdriver remove the five phillips head screws.

Step 3: Remove 2 phillips push pins holding inner fender skirt of driver wheel well

The forward inner fender lining needs to be loosened (but not removed) so you can disconnect the wiring from the front bumper assembly. There are two phillips push pins that hold the forward part of the inner fender lining to the frame. One is on the front of the wheel well and the other runs along the frame behind the front of the tire. Using the Phillips screwdriver turn the center of the pin until it pops out. Then you should be able to pull the entire pin assembly out. Once the two pins are removed the lining should be loose enough to manipulate it so you can get access to the bolts and wiring for the upcoming steps.

Step 4: Remove 2 10MM nuts holding front facia to driver front fender

With a 1/4 inch wratchet and 10MM deep well socket remove the 2 10MM nuts. This picture shows the location of the nuts once the facia has been removed.

Step 5: Disconnect turn signal lighting, running light and fog light wiring from front facia

There are three wiring connections to lights that need to be disconnected from each side before the front facia can be removed. These are accessed by pulling the inner fender assembly back and reaching inside the front facia. The turn signal and running light wiring is removed by grabbing the socket assembly, rotating it 90 degrees and removing the whole socket assembly from the front facia. (see picture of socket assemblies with bulbs attached). The fog light must be disconnected by pinching the retaining clip on the wiring connector and pulling it.

Here is another picture of the wiring once it is disconnected.

Step 6: Repeat Step 2 on passenger side

Step 7: Repeat Step 3 on passenger side

Step 8: Repeat Step 4 on passenger side

Step 9: Repeat Step 5 on passenger side

Step 10: Remove 10MM bolts from top of front facia

Remove the 2 10MM bolts where the two bars come up on each side of the grill on top of the front facia.

Step 11: Remove the three 7/32 bolts holding the bottom splash screen to the underside of the car

Once these three bolts have been removed the front facia should be ready to remove.

Step 12: Remove front facia from car and set aside

With a person on each side of the front facia at the wheel wells support the front facia with one had and pull down on the portion of the front facia that mates with the fenders. The bottom of the facia should swing forward as the facia separates from the front fenders. Then lift the facia up so that the top tabs are cleared next to where the bolts were removed in step 10. Place the front facia facing up on a blanket or soft surface to protect the paint on the areas that touch the ground.

Install Killer Chiller mounting bracket and chiller unit (steps 13-19)

Note: The Killer Chiller is installed directly in front of the condenser. The fins and tubing of the condenser are fragile. Take care not to damage the condenser during the install.

Step 13: Remove intercooler pump wiring from intercooler support frame / disconnect from pump

Using a trim removal tool or flathead screwdriver, carefully pry the intercooler pump wiring loose from the intercooler heat exchanger support bracket. The two holes will be used to mount the Killer Chiller mounting bracket. Then disconnect the wiring from the intercooler pump and fold wiring up out of the way.

NOTE: Pump still connected in picture.

Step 14: Unbolt the horn assembly and tie wrap out of the way

Unbolt the horn assembly by removing the 2 10MM nuts at the top of the radiator support brace.

NOTE: We did not do this initially but it will be needed later. Doing this now will save you some headache. Our pictures show it still installed but do it now anyway.

Step 15: Mark hole locations on Killer Chiller mounting bracket

Place Killer Chiller mounting bracket in location shown (on top of intercooler support bracket all the way to the left against the plastic condenser shroud). From underneath mark the two hole locations on the Killer Chiller using metal scribe or marker.

Step 16: Drill holes in mounting bracket

Using a 7 MM drill bit drill the holes marked in step 15. Take care to drill the holes in the exact location. This will help with mounting the bracket.

Step 17: Mount KC bracket using mounting hardware

GENERAL INFO: When we bought our mounting hardware we bought a variety of sizes since we were in test mode. We bought 7MM bolts with nylock nuts (2 1.5 inch and 2 2 inch) and six 3/8 inch nylon spacers. We should have purchased 6MM bolts as they would have fit in the existing holes in the intercooler HX support bracket. We also only used 4 of the nylon spacers (two for each hole raising the height of the KC mounting bracket 3/4 inch above the intercooler support bracket.

Install the mounting bracket onto the intercooler support bracket using the 2 6MM bolts, 3/8 inch nylon spacers (2 on each side) and nylock nuts.

NOTE: Raising the bracket is needed so the KC hoses will clear a metal bracket on the passenger side. This picture shows the install with three nylon spacers. You only need to use two 3/8 inch spacers on each side.

Step 18: Trim condenser shroud to allow room for hoses

GENERAL INFO: The first picture shows the Killer Chiller sitting in the mounting bracket. In this picture you can see the interference of the condenser shroud on the passenger side as the fittings and hoses will need to run past the shroud.

Using a pneumatic cutting wheel (or other suitable tool) trim the passenger condenser shroud as shown. We used a horizontal plastic support ridge on the inside of the shroud to mark the top of the cut and a vertical plastic support ridge on the outside of the shroud to mark the vertical location for the cut. Leaving these support ridges in place ensures rigidity of the shroud piece.

GENERAL INFO: This picture was taken after all the trimming has been completed. The shroud needs to be trimmed high to allow all the hoses to be run through without interfering with the front facia once it is reinstalled.

We also used a pneumatic rotary file to debur the cut plastic.

Step 19: Install the Killer Chiller unit and secure in support bracket

Tighten the nylock nuts that secure the KC unit with the top bracket. It is recommended to tighten the back first and then tighten the front to the desired final position.

CAUTION: When working tightening the aft nut it is possible to damage the condenser fins if you are not careful. A deep well socket, a universal joint extension and small 1/4 inch driver would work best.

Remove Battery (steps 20-21)

Note: Removal of the battery and tray are needed to get access to the connection in the air conditioning tubing where the Killer Chiller will be connected (located under the battery tray). Take my advice and get it out of the way now. You will need the room.

Step 20: Remove battery from battery tray

Using a 10MM socket, loosen the nuts that secure the positive and negative leads on the battery. Lift and remove the positive lead off the battery terminal first and then the negative lead. Once removed use a tie wrap to secure these out of the way. Using a 1/4 inch 10MM socket, long extension and driver, loosen strap that holds battery in place. Finally remove the battery and set out of the way.

Step 21: Remove battery tray

Using the same socket and extension as in step 20 loosed the three bolts that hold the battery tray in place. Remove battery tray.

Install AC hoses (steps 22-25)

Note: Take special care not to damage the orifice, o-rings, or other parts of the AC system. Also be careful of the condenser when tightening the fittings on the KC unit.

Step 22: Disconnect AC orifice connection

GENERAL INFO: This image shows the connection of the AC tubing that we will be connecting the Killer Chiller. There is a black plastic retaining clip that will be on the connection. It is removed in this picture. The connection is the wide point in the tubing.

Using a 5/8th inch spring lock release tool disconnect the AC fitting below the battery location

This picture shows the spring lock release tool in various sizes.

This picture shows the open connection and the spring lock release tool on the tubing below the fitting.

Step 23: Remove oriface from existing tubing

Remove the orifice from the existing tubing. The tubing provided has a blue orifice in it already. Verify that the one you remove is blue. If it is not then you will need to reuse the orifice you removed by pulling the blue one out of the tubing provided in the KC kit and installing the one removed from the factory connection. We used a special tool to remove the orifice from the tubing but a pair of need nose pliers could be used, but be careful not to damage it if you have to reuse it.

Step 24: Assemble AC hoses

GENERAL INFO: Our system came with a long piece of AC hose and all the fittings we needed to create our own hoses. We only needed to measure the length needed and create the hoses. After evaluating our route for the hoses, we determined that one of our cut piecese needed to be 39 inches and one 38 inches (just cut hose length - not including fittings attached). We assembled our hoses and started connecting everything together.

To assemble a hose with the connections provided, we first slid on two of the banding clips to the AC hose. Then we sprayed the female end of the connection coupling that slides inside the AC hose with silicon to help slide it in the hose. Next we installed the banding retainer on the fitting (shown in photo - left side). Finally we slid the bands into their position over the retaining clip, rotated them 180 degrees from each other and then tighten the bands with a special clamping tool. You could probably use some other common tools to secure the bands but this tool was very efficient. We followed up by using a set of channel locks to ensure the clamps were bent in place well.

Here is a picture of the final connection. Note the 180 degree positioning of the bands in the retaining clip. Also you can see the clamping tool in Johnathan's pocket.

Here is a not so good picture of Johnathan finishing the one of the hoses.

Step 25: Route and connect AC hoses

Routing of the AC hoses takes place on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Start at the battery well and feed the hoses just below the electrical wiring bundle next to the shock tower. This will ensure that they stay away from the exhaust and are relatively hidden from view when looking at the engine compartment from the top. The next three pictures are of the hose routing.

This picture shows both connections in their proper location at the battery well (still not connected). Make sure that they hoses are lined up correctly with the fittings for the tubing so they can be easily connected once the hoses are routed.

This picture shows the hoses routed under the wiring next to the shock tower and under the fuse box.

This picture show the route of one of the hoses exiting from under the fuse box.

Once the hoses are routed properly connect the fittings at the battery well. This picture shows both connections complete. We went ahead and put the safety connection (black plastic piece) back on the hose next to the battery.

Finally connect the two hoses to the Killer Chiller unit. When connecting these hoses use a open end wrench (for the hose fitting) and an adjustable wrench to hold the fitting on the unit itself. This will prevent the unit from rocking when you tighten it, which could potentially damage the condenser. When you tighten the fittings the hoses will try to rotate some so it is a good idea to twist them about a third of a turn in the opposite direction prior to snugging them up good so when you are done they will be straight with no twisting strain on them.

Install Intercooler hoses (steps 26-28)

Note: Even though our kit came with a 90 degree elbow adapter for the heater hose, we opted to run one length of hose from the intercooler to the KC unit and reuse the original hose that went from the intercooler HX to the intercooler inlet for our other connection (from the intercooler HX outlet to the KC unit). We did this because we ended up with fewer connections (and thus fewer chances for leakage) as well as the fact that the OEM hose had some prebends formed in it that was well suited for our needs. We found the best part of the hose that worked for us and cut the rest to length.

Also be careful of the condenser when tightening the fittings on the KC unit.

Step 26: Install hose from intercooler to KC unit

The OEM hose to remove starts at the bottom of the intercooler HX on the passenger side and runs to the connection in this picture (the one with the hose already removed). We completely removed this hose and replaced with a one piece of 3/4 ID hose. Be careful when running this hose not to leave slack in it as it runs between the engine and the fan. This hose is connected to the furthest inboard connection on the KC unit. I reused the OEM clamp on this new hose so that it looked the same as the hose next to it.

Step 27: Install hose from intercooler HX to KC unit

This is the OEM hose that we cut to length to fit. This hose runs from the intercooler HX outlet to the most outboard connection on the KC unit. Notice the bends in the hose allow it to line up perfect for this application.

This picture show the OEM hose installed from a side view. It runs from the intercooler HX outlet to the outboard connection on the KC unit. Also note that this hose has been tie wrapped to the frame to prevent vibration.

Step 28: Secure hoses in final position with tie wraps

Here is a picture of the final assembly with all hoses connected. Note the position of all hoses and tie wrap them exactly like this. There is not much clearance when putting the front facia back on and the hoses have been tie wrapped to allow the front facia to be reinstalled. We had to reposition the inboard horn for a little extra clearance. This is done by loosening one bolt on the back and rotating the horn up slightly.

Recharge and Refill Systems (step 27-28)

Note: It is ideal to recharge the AC system and refill the intercooler system before putting the front facia and battery back in as a qualified mechanic with the proper tools will monitor the charge and use a freon sniffer to check to see if there are any leaks. If there are leaks then you will not have to dissasemble anything to correct it.

Step 27: Recharge AC system and check for leaks

While most people will probably want to do this step in this order, we actually charged our system before connecting the intercooler hoses. Recharging the AC system will take about a half hour so you can do this in parallel with some other steps if you wish as long as the AC system is closed.

NOTE: Ensure that you include 2 ounces of PAG 46 oil when charging

Here are the 134 Freon volumes we noted.

• Factory setup - 1.625 lbs.
• KC Unit setup - 1.8 lbs.

Step 28: Refill intercooler system

The owners manual says the intercooler system uses the same antifreeze as in the engine coolant system. I purchased a gallon of the "Ford Gold" antifreeze from the dealership, mixed about 1/3 of the gallon 50% with water. So the system so far has taken about 2/3 of a gallon. In order to bleed the system we hooked a 12 volt source to the intercooler pump and circulated the water to burp out any air pockets. I have driven it around a bit and have monitored it and so far no more needed.

Reassembly of front end

Note: Nothing big about the reassembly. Just do it in the opposite order as disassembly. Go backwards from steps 12-2.