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2003-2004 Cobra Instructions v1.0

Step #1

Have the A/C system fully evacuated using professional equipment. Please do NOT dump your refrigerant into the open atmosphere! Although R134a is not harmful to the ozone layer, it does have a low direct global warming potential, and it is also VERY toxic to breathe!

Step 2)

2a) Jack car up, and place on sturdy jack stands (step 2a is optional, and is not required).

2b) Remove your air filter assembly.

2c) Remove Battery (not necessary, but will allow for easier access to bumper nuts on driver side).

2d) Disconnect the headlight wiring harness at bulbs.

2e) Disconnect the fog light wiring harness at bulbs.

2f) Unscrew the center pins of the four push pins that hold the plastic radiator cover on, and then pull the cover off being careful to catch the push pins as they come out (two of these points are circled in GREEN on the photo below, the pins and cover have already been removed).

2g) Unscrew the center pins of the two push pins that hold the bumper cover on next to the headlights, and pull up to remove the push pins (the YELLOW circle on the left of the picture shows the passenger side pin before removal).

2h) Unscrew the two nuts holding the sides of the bumper cover to the fender (the YELLOW oval circle shows you where they are).

Step #3

3a) unscrew the two screws that hold the inner fender to the outer fender. These are just in front of the front tires at about the point shown by the arrow.

Step #4

4a) Remove the center part of the two push pins (circled in YELLOW), and then remove the rest of the pins.

NOTE: You do NOT need to remove the four pins holding the little air dam in place (GREEN arrows); it will just come off with the cover.

Step #5

5a) From underneath the car, reach up inside the fender (inside the inner fender) and remove the two nuts from the cover studs (just like you did behind the air filter area). You can use the horns to orient yourself to this photo.

Step #6

6a) Pull out on the bumper cover at the sides where the two studs on each side goes through the fender.

6b) pull the cover off the front of the car.

Steps 2-6 are referenced (and slightly modified) from here:

http://www.socalterminators.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93

Step #7

7a) Remove the bumper cover’s front foam support. This is a simple procedure, as it is generally only held on by a single pop rivet.

7c) Center the KC core to the backside of the foam support, and mark the bumper cover with a marker to the size of the Killer Chiller core assembly.

7d) Note the first picture in the group of pictures below, and you will see the areas, highlighted in red, that you will be carving out. The preferred method for cutting the foam support is with a sawzall. Use a blade that is deep enough to cut all the way thru. Once you have the foam cut out, install the bracket which is provided with the kit to the bottom of the bumper so it runs under the cavity you just cut out, this will hold the chiller core up in place, and prevent it from sagging.

Where the coolant and refrigerant lines run, you will need to make the depth of the area you carve out deep enough so that both lines for each side can run through without hindrance.

$C:\Documents and Settings\Bubba\Desktop\Killer Chiller Instructions\killerchiller_install_blwn98_sm_2.jpg$

Step #8

8a) Remove the liquid line running from the condenser to the EVAP. This is the line with the orifice tube in it right off the condenser. If you look at Step #9 below, it is the lowest metal line running from the front of the condenser.

8b) Cut the rubber portion of the liquid line directly in the middle.

8c) Install two 90deg menders into the liquid line, one on the top portion of the hose you just cut, and one on the bottom portion of the hose you just cut, and face them directly towards the front of the vehicle. Secure these menders with the easy clip cage and clamps provided.

8d) Take the new provided refrigerant line, and cut directly into 2 equal sections. Now you have 2 lines, *wink*.

8e) Install each line into a mender, and secure with the clamps provided.

Step #9

Note: The liquid line in this picture has been manipulated into a different shape. Please do not reshape your line.

9a) Run the refrigerant lines from the liquid line following this path, to the front of the car, and secure with zip ties along the route, as shown. The refrigerant lines will run through the passenger side of the foam bumper support, as shown below.

$C:\Documents and Settings\Bubba\Desktop\KC Images\killerchiller_install_sm_6.jpg$

9b) Connect the refrigerant lines to the fittings as shown in the last picture above, using the easy clip cage and clamps.

Step #10

10a) Cut the included coolant hose in half. You will have two 3 foot sections.

10b) Run the coolant hoses through the carved area of the driver side of the foam bumper support, and then connect them to the metal 90 deg barbs on the KC (red arrows in the picture below), using the supplied hose clamps.

$C:\Documents and Settings\Bubba\Desktop\Killer Chiller Instructions\killerchiller_install_sm_6_arrows.jpg$

10c) On the driver side of the heat exchanger (HE), fully disconnect the coolant hose from the exit of the HE and the metal tubing running to the HE.

10d) Using the provided hose clamps, connect the new coolant hoses, running from the KC core assembly, to the HE and the metal tubing running to the HE.

10e) Refill your IC coolant system as normal, test for leaks, and ensure that coolant is flowing as normal (you can jumper your IC pump to determine such). Using at least 2/3 water with 1/3 coolant will provide for better cooling potential. To further enhance cooling, use 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter, as well (most Pep Boys will have this in stock, or your local Redline dealer).

Step #11

11a) Using professional A/C equipment, recharge the A/C system, and ensure that 2 ounces of PAG oil is used (very important)! Start with 1 pound of refrigerant, and then increase a couple ounces at a time. Raise the idle to 1200 rpm and set the low side pressure to 28 psi, preferably on an 80 degree day. You will most likely end up with around 1.5 pounds of refrigerant total, plus or minus an ounce or two.

Notes: When the outside temp increases, the low side will increase in pressure as well, so the KC will not get as cold (remember, the lower the pressure on the low side, the colder the chiller will get). Conversely, when the outside temp drops, the low side pressure will also drop, and the KC will get colder. However, if the outside temp drops, say below 60, the low side pressure will drop to a point where the compressor will kick off (the low side cutout switch kicks off the compressor at about 22 psi).

You can adjust the low side pressure switch counterclockwise one ¼ turn. This will allow the compressor to stay on at a lower pressure. However, do not adjust so much as to allow the compressor to stay on below 18 psi at idle. By doing this, you can set the low side pressure at 24 psi, instead of 28 psi, and it will allow for better chilling. The low side cutout switch is located on the side of the accumulator, and the adjustment screw is usually located in between the two terminals on the end of the switch.

For additional tech help contact Joe or Danny

Joe can be reached at 505-450-2617

Danny can be reached at 850-292-9987